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凤凰古城 Fenghuang Ancient City

wh  10-10-28 01:42
 

        凤凰,一座湘西的小城,是沈从文笔下充满回忆的故乡;是新西兰女作家路易艾黎誉为“中国最美的小城”的地方。
        凤凰城分新旧两个城区,城中土家族、苗族、汉族杂居。古城建于清代康熙年间,依山傍水,清浅的沱江穿城而出,红色砂岩砌成的城墙环绕小城,城门分别屹立四方,吊脚楼民居排列两岸,石桥、木桥、桥墩贯江而过,庙宇、祠堂、故居等景点散落在民居之中,条条狭窄漫长的青石板路将它们相连。

Fenghuang is a small city in Hunan province. It is the hometown which Shen Congwen wrote so passionately about. It is also the city which is called "the most beautiful town in China" by the New Zealand writer Rewi Alley.

Fenghuang is comprised of the old part and the new part. In the city, ethnic groups (Tujia, Miao and Han) live together. The old part was established when China was reined by Emperor Kangxi in Qing Dynasty (1665-1772), which is neighboring with green mountains and lakes. Crystal clear and shallow Tuojiang River goes through the city. The city doors were located on each side of the red sandstone city walls. The wooden residential houses projecting over the water were standing on both sides of the river. Countless stone bridges, wooden bridges and piers are available everywhere to help you cross the river. Temples, ancestral halls and old residences of celebrities are scattered among folk houses with the long and narrow grey stoned lanes connecting them. 

 

        漫步于东西两千多米长的石板路上,仿佛置身于一幅水墨丹青画卷之中。家家户户雕梁画栋,无论飞檐、兽脊,还是防火墙,都精细玲珑而不乏轩昂气势。在这里,最有名的是那一幢幢古色古香、富有浓郁土家族风韵的吊脚楼。可惜河畔的吊脚楼大多已不在了,只有在回龙潭那里尚留有十多间老屋,细脚伶仃的木柱立在河中,托起一段沉沉的历史。

When you walk on the stone lane which is about 2000 meters long from east to west, you will feel as if you were in a picture of ink painting. All the households have carved beams and painted rafters, and eaves, animal sculptures on the roof or firewalls look so exquisite and imposing. The most famous architectures are those wooden houses projecting over the river, which are antique and full of ethnic flavor. Unfortunately, most of them have been demolished and there are only about ten buildings still standing by the lake of Huilongtan. The sight of their delicate posture can bring you back in time.

 

        来到古城,沈从文故居不能不看。踏着青青石板路,寻着中营街,十几米路,就见一座典型的南方古四合院矗立眼前。四合院分前后两进,中有方块红石铺成的天井,两边是厢房,大小共11间,整个故居都是砖木结构,青瓦白墙,木格花窗。镂花的门窗,小巧别致,古色古香,具有浓郁的湘西明清建筑特色。

When you are here, you should visit Shen Congwen's old residence. Walking on the grey stone lanes along the Zhongying Street and after a walk less than 20 meters, you will find an old typical southern courtyard house in front. This courtyard house is divided into the front part and the back part. A small courtyard covered with square red bricks is in the middle with 11 rooms on its two sides. The whole house is built by bricks and wood with grey tiles and white walls. All of its windows and doors are carved, which are small but unique, with a look of antique beauty. The whole building is characterized with southern Hunan architectural style in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

 

        故居陈列室里,一张张清晰珍贵的图片,记录了沈从文步入尘世后所走过的艰难历程,那一行行流畅深沉的文字,忠实地记录了作家成长的过程。目睹这些实物,眼前似乎出现了沈老和蔼可亲的音容笑貌,仿佛又听见沈老:“照我思索,能理解我;照我思索,可认识人” 的教诲。
         沈从文先生的作品需要一个人去静静品味;凤凰古城也适合一个人漫步在老街、小巷、河畔,慢慢地走,细细地体会。

In the exhibition room, one precious picture after another records the hardship which Shen Congwen experienced in all his life. The description beneath every picture faithfully shows the growth of this great writer. Look at them, Mr.Shen's smiling face seem to appear in my mind, and his voice revives in my ear. He seems like telling us again and again, "Think like me, you will understand me. Think like me, you can understand people."

Mr. Shen's work needs to be enjoyed alone in quite. Fenghuang ancient city also needs to be appreciated alone by slowly strolling along its every street, lane and riverside.


 

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Edit on10-10-28 01:42