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乌鲁木齐闲逛记 A Stroll Through Urumqi (2)

wh  10-11-14 23:04

        我喜欢宗教建筑,来到乌鲁木齐当然不能错过这个机会。
        我们的第一站是解放南路北段的汗腾格里大寺。“汗腾格里”维吾尔语意为“王中之王”,原为南关清真寺,经扩建后更为汗腾格里大寺。四座高大的尖塔簇拥着中间的大圆屋顶,两侧另有两个小圆顶陪衬,具有浓郁的伊斯兰建筑风格。汗腾格里大寺的建筑为双层楼式,上层是清真寺,下层是出售中亚各国商品的商场,楼外两侧皆设半环形登楼台阶。

I love religious architecture, so of course I wasn't going to pass up the great opportunity in Urumqi.

Our first stop was Khan-Tengri Temple on Jiefang South Road, North Section. "Khan-Tengri" is a Uygur term which means "king of kings". Originally called "Southern Pass Mosque", the structure came to be known as Khan-Tengri Temple after expansion. Four tall minarets embrace the large dome in the center, flanked by a smaller dome on each side. The Khan-Tengri Temple is a classic piece of Islamic architecture and consists of two levels. The upper level is the mosque, while the lower level consists of shops selling merchandise from all over Central Asia. Semi-circular staircases installed on the exterior of the building allow for access to the upper level.


        绕到建中路中段东侧的河州清真寺,我们径直步入大院,只见大殿建筑上部耸立着闪闪发光的绿色圆顶,四角配立着四个小圆顶,银色月牙格外引人注目。据查该寺始建于19世纪末,民国时期毁于火灾,经国民党河州籍官兵出资重建。1977年被乌鲁木齐市废品收购站强行占用,后拆除改建成家属院。1982年家属院拆除,1988年寺庙得以重建。

We next made our way over to Hezhou Mosque on the east side of Jianzhong Road, Middle Section, and walked straight into the compound. Towering in front of us was the glittering green dome atop the basilica, with four smaller domes and conspicuous silver crescent moons adorning the four corners. According to reports, the mosque was first built at the end of the 19th century, burned down during the Republic period (1912-1949), and later rebuilt by Kuomintang officials from Hezhou. In 1977, it was seized by an Urumqi waste collection agency and demolished, replaced by a residential complex. The residences were demolished in 1982, and the mosque was finally rebuilt in 1988.

        陕西大寺位于建中路北端的小巷,是乌鲁木齐市内最大的回族清真寺。城市的日新月异让陕西大寺淹没在高楼大厦中,找一个最佳的拍摄点很难,同行的朋友无意中望见陕西大寺对面住宅楼三层的一位老兄趴在阳台上发呆,她竟然说服了那位老兄让我们去他家拍照。可惜的是从他家阳台看大寺的视线被电线杆和电线遮挡住,还是无法拍到大寺全景。不可思议的是这位仁兄竟然如此相信陌生人,这让我也充分感受到了新疆人民的热情。
        与陕西大寺值班室人员说明只是拍照的来意后,我们步入始建于1906年的陕西大寺,与其它清真寺不同的是,陕西大寺的大殿是中原地区古代传统砖木结构,坐西向东,大殿由朱红色大柱支撑梁架,拱门上刻有《古兰经》经文,刻工非常精美。我们不是伊斯兰教徒不能进入大殿,几个头裹白纱巾的穆斯林妇女从我们身边走过,望着她们的身影我们悄然地离开了陕西大寺。

        本文内容及图片均来自飘尘的博客http://marcojiang.blog.sohu.com,为适应栏目需求文字略有删节。感谢原作者的转载授权和大力支持。

Shaanxi Great Mosque is located in an alley off of Jianzhong Road, North Section. It is the largest Hui mosque inside the city of Urumqi. The rapid development of the city has left Shaanxi Great Mosque submerged in a sea of high-rise buildings, and it was hard to find a good angle for a photograph. One of the friends with me happened to spot a gentleman relaxing on the balcony of his third-floor apartment opposite the mosque, and she managed to persuade him to let us in for a photo. Unfortunately, the view from his balcony was obstructed by electric poles and electric wires, and I still couldn't get in a complete shot of the mosque. I was most amazed by this kind gentleman who could thus trust a stranger; through him I felt firsthand the warmth and friendliness of the Xinjiang people.

After explaining to the staff that we came just to take pictures, we stepped into Shaanxi Great Mosque, dating back to 1906. Shaanxi Great Mosque is different from other mosques in that the main hall was constructed in the traditional brick and wood style of the Central Plains, with seats on the west facing east. Vermilion red columns hold up the roof beams of the main hall. Inscribed over the arched doorway is a verse from the Quran, engraved most exquisitely. As non-Muslims we were not allowed to enter the main hall. A few Muslim women wearing white head scarves passed by us, and our gaze followed them as we quietly departed from Shaanxi Great Mosque.

The content and photographs of this article are taken from Piaochen's blog http://marcojiang.blog.sohu.com. The text was abridged to fit the requirements of the column. We thank the original author for authorizing the reprint and for his enthusiastic support.

 

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