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眺望梨城库尔勒 Looking Out over the "Pear City"—Korla

wh  10-11-14 23:07

        库尔勒是新疆巴音郭楞蒙古自治州的首府,它坐落于欧亚大陆和新疆腹心地带、塔里木盆地东北边缘,北倚天山支脉库鲁克山和霍拉山,南临世界第二大沙漠-塔克拉玛干沙漠。“库尔勒”是维吾尔语“眺望”的意思,库尔勒有汉、维、蒙、回等23个民族,少数民族占30.1%,这里盛产香梨与石油,又称梨城或石油城。
        库尔勒市历史悠久,大部分曾属古代西域36国之一的渠犁国,是古丝绸之路的咽喉要道。公元630年,佛教高僧玄奘西天取经曾途经库尔勒。

Korla (or Ku'erle) is the capital of the Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture in Xinjiang province. It is situated in the backwoods of Eurasia and Xinjiang at the northeast rim of the Tarim Basin, with Kuruc and Hora Hills to the north and the world's second largest desert to the south – the Taklamakan Desert. "Korla" is a Uygur word meaning "look-out". Korla is home to 23 different ethnic groups, including the Han, Uygur, Mongolian, and Hui, with minority groups making up 30.1% of the population. The area is rich in fragrant pears and petroleum, and thus Korla is also known as "Pear City" or "Petroleum City".

The city of Korla has a long history. It once belonged to the Quli State, one of the 36 states in the Western Region, and served as an important stop on the ancient Silk Road. In 630 A.D., the eminent Buddhist monk Xuanzang passed through Korla on his pilgrimage to the west.

        我们没有直接进城,先来到了著名的铁门关。铁门关曾是南北疆交通的天险要冲,古代“丝绸之路”中道咽喉。晋代曾在这里设关,因其险固,故称“铁门关”。明代末年,铁门关被毁,仅剩土基墙座;清初在残存的土基上建关帝庙;民国初年因战乱,铁门关遗迹和庙宇一起成为废墟;现在看到的是1990年复建后的铁门关,关旁绝壁上现在还留有“襟山带河”4个隶书大字。
        西汉张骞衔命出使西域曾途经铁门关,班超也曾饮马于孔雀河,故而人们又称孔雀河为饮马河。唐代边塞诗人岑参登铁门关曾赋诗一首:“铁关天西涯,极目少行客,关旁一小吏,终日对石壁,桥跨千仞危,路盘两崖窄,试登西楼望,一望头欲白”。这首诗真实而生动的描绘出了铁门关的险峻。走进关门,是一条曲折的土路,我仿佛看到了当年这个重要的军事要塞,历经多次激战的场面。

Instead of going directly into the city, we first stopped at the famous Iron Gate Pass. Iron Gate Pass was once a natural barrier and hub on the north-south Xinjiang transport route, a strategic passageway on the ancient Silk Road. The Jin Dynasty once set up a pass here, and it was called "Iron Gate Pass" because of its imposing strength. The pass was destroyed in the late Ming Dynasty, with only a dirt foundation and wall base left behind. In the early Qing Dynasty, a Temple of Lord Guan was erected over the dirt foundation. Subsequently, in the early years of the Republic, the temple and the remains of the pass were completely destroyed by war. Standing in front of us now was the Iron Gate Pass rebuilt in 1990. On a large crag beside the pass, there remained an old inscription of four large scripts: "襟山带河" ("wearing the mountains as a lapel, and wearing the river as a girdle").

Zhang Qian of the Western Han Dynasty passed through Iron Gate Pass on his diplomatic mission to the Western Regions. Ban Chao also once led his horse to Peacock River for a drink, and thus the river came to have the nickname "Horse Drink River". Tang Dynasty poet Cen Sen composed this poem after climbing the pass: "Iron Gate Pass at world's edge / Few travelers to be seen / One lowly official closes the gate / All day just see stone walls / Mountain bridge, a thousand dangerous steps / Narrow road winds between sharp cliffs / I climb the west tower to look / One glance and my head turns white." This poem accurately and vividly depicts the steepness of Iron Gate Pass. Walking along a winding dirt road up to the gate of the pass, I could see in my mind's eye this great military bastion through its many fierce battle scenes over the years.

        一提到城市公园,我原本没有什么兴趣的,但来到库尔勒市龙山公园,看了介绍后颇有点感动。公园是在一片荒漠中建造出的一片绿洲,成了在沙漠地区植树造林成功的典范。公园里还修建了人工湖,可以划船游玩。站在公园山顶远眺四方,沙尘是最大的环境污染源,相机上不一会儿就落了一层沙尘。
        车队一进入城市,眼前豁然开朗,库尔勒因石油工业而发展迅速,城市建设非常现代化,高楼大厦随处可见,根本看不出地处沙漠边缘地带。穿过大桥沿着河堤漫步,看到一些市民在河边闲逛,更有几个维吾尔族美女坐在河边发呆,此景立刻成为大家拍摄的焦点,硬是把美女们拍得不耐烦了,弃大家而去。


I generally don't care much for city parks, but when I came to Korla's Longshan Park and read its introduction I was considerably impressed. Longshan Park is an oasis built in the middle of a barren desert, a successful model of forestation in desert regions. The park even contains a man-made lake suitable for boating and recreation. Looking out into the distance from the park hilltop, our view was obscured by the desert dust. A layer of dust soon settled on my camera.

As our travel team drove into the city, we were struck by the dazzling brilliance of the city scene. Thanks to the rapid development of the petroleum industry, the city boasted ultra-modern construction with high-rise buildings everywhere, looking nothing like a city on the edge of the desert. Strolling across the bridge and along the river banks, we saw some residents out for a walk along the river. A few beautiful Uygur girls were sitting by the riverside and we all started taking pictures of them. We finally annoyed them so much they got up and left.

      本文内容及图片均来自飘尘的博客http://marcojiang.blog.sohu.com,为适应栏目需求文字略有删节。感谢原作者的转载授权和大力支持。
The content and photographs of this article are taken from Piaochen's blog
http://marcojiang.blog.sohu.com. The text was abridged to fit the requirements of the column. We thank the original author for authorizing the reprint and for his enthusiastic support.

 

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Edit on10-11-14 23:10