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一个人的黔行手记之四:岜沙的汉子(下)Travel Alone in Guizhou: Men of Basha (part three)

estella  11-08-25 09:37

Language:中文 pin yin English

        第二天,恰逢一个旅行团到来,于是寨子里的姑娘和小伙子们都聚集起来表演。迎客、鸣枪、芦笙舞、祭树神、镰刀剃头、抢亲……一系列古老的民俗已经演变成舞台上的节目单,程序化地上演着。姑娘和小伙子们漫不经心,就连寨老脸上也少了主持仪式的庄严肃穆,熟练地面对游客的镜头摆起POSE。
A group of tourists came on the second day after my arrival. Girls and boys in the village got together to put on a performance. A series of customs as greeting guests, firing a salute, Lusheng dance, sacrificing to the God of Tree, haircutting with sickles, and taking a bribe by force, were put on one after another as if they were just items in the programme. The performers seemed casual and careless, and even the chieftain lacked the seriousness needed for presiding over a ceremony. The villagers felt quite easy in front of the cameras and adopted different poses to take better photos.
       既便如此,我还是在这个族群男人的眼里发现了不同。虽然在这个信息发达的社会,他们无法逃脱被关注的命运,日益被撕去面纱,展现在世人面前,同时也被现代文明点点滴滴地侵蚀着,但是,在他们的血液里,仍然流淌着战神的不屈。他们顽强地坚守着自己古老的风俗,坚守着男人狩猎女人耕织的传统,坚守着自己的服饰和发型,坚守着对自然和祖先的崇拜。
However, I still could spot something different in the men’s eyes. Living in an information age, they could not escape from being found, exposed and watched in front of the public. They were gradually influenced by the modern civilization. But the unbending spirit of the God of War had been preserved in their blood. They were still sticking to their old customs and tradition of “men hunting and women farming and knitting”, keeping their hairstyles and clothing, and worshipping the nature and ancestors.

       即使是在表演中,这些男人们的眼神也绝无一丝谄媚或轻浮。他们面容坚毅,眼神执着,透着一股子血性男儿的范儿,就连几岁的孩子也不例外。一个大约只有七八岁的小枪手,长得十分英俊可爱,几乎每个人都忍不住上前跟他合影,合影后会给他一两元钱。可他自始至终不笑,小脸绷得紧紧的,即使在拿到钱的时候也一样严肃,并不因赚到了钱而欢天喜地。
Even in the performance there was not a little flattery or frivolity in the men’s eyes. They looked so firm and persistent, showing a great deal of masculinity. It was the same with their children. I met a little beautiful and lovely boy who was only 7 or 8 years old. Every tourist would take a photo with him and then gave him one or two yuan as return. From the beginning to the end, he never smiled even after receiving the money.
       短暂的两日停留,使我只能成为这个族群的匆匆过客。我无法对他们有进一步的了解,虽然我是如此好奇。我多希望能够深入这个族群,更多地了解他们的历史,他们的内心世界。我也想去参加一场古老的出生礼和树葬礼,见证一个枪手从生到死的历程。可惜我终归还是得离去,带着好 奇和迷惑,也带着希望与不甘离去。
I spent only two days as a temporary guest here. I haven’t been able to know more about them although I was so curious. How I hoped to get closer to them and know more about their history and their inner world. I also wanted to watch a birth ceremony and a tree burial, witnessing the life process of a gunman. But I had to leave after all, with all my curiosity, my confusion, my hope, and my reluctance.

版权所有:MyEChinese

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Edit on11-08-25 09:37