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徒步奔向秋那桶 Hiking to the Village of Qiuna Tong

estella  11-09-14 09:49

Language:中文 pin yin English

       早上从德拉姆客栈出发时,四周还是漆黑一团。星星在头顶闪烁,黑压压的大山在眼前勾勒出一个暗暗的轮廓,鸡鸣狗吠。今天,我和在客栈结识的几个朋友一起,准备徒步前往十八公里以外的秋那桶。
It was still pitch-dark when I started off from Delamu Inn. Stars were shining brightly overhead, and the mountains were vaguely outlined against the morning sky. Cocks were crowing and dogs were barking. I was ready to hike to the village of Qiuna Tong with several friends I made in the inn.
        我们走到重丁村时,天终于蒙蒙亮了。已经是早上七点半,村子里还是一片寂静。如果在城市,这个时候早已是车水马龙,人潮如涌了。今天是个阴天,但对徒步来说却是个好天气。没有阳光,沿途风景略显平淡,不过即便如此,当我远远看到雾里村时,还是被它那遗世独立、静谧安宁的样子打动了。
It was near daybreak when we arrived at Chongding Village. At 7:30 a.m., the village was still in sleep; while it would be bustling with life and noise at this time in the city. It was cloudy, a perfect day for hiking. Without much sunshine, sceneries along the way would be less charming. However, when I saw the Wuli Village, I was still fascinated by its peaceful elegancy.
       雾里村,又叫五里村或翁里村。不过,我更喜欢雾里村这个名字。雪山脚下的一片小小村庄,疏落有致的房屋,绿油油的田地,屋前院后的桃树,云雾萦绕的时候,不就是一座美轮美奂的雾里山村吗?今天虽然没有阳光,也没有云雾,但隔江相望的小村子,安静得仿佛不食人间烟火般。没有人走动,甚至看不到一只狗。一切都悄无声息,只有几缕淡淡的炊烟。昭示着人类生活的痕迹。
Wuli Village is also called Wengli Village, but I like the name Wuli better (literally it means “village in the mist” in Chinese). The village lay at the foot of a snow mountain. Farm houses were scattered in a well-arranged way. Fields were green and peach trees were planted around the houses. When a thick mist enveloped the village, all these scenes made up a breath-taking scroll. There was no much sunshine and no mist that day, but the village across the river, looked even more transcendental, as if it had been secluded from the world. No figures were walking around; not even a dog was seen. It was a complete silence, except for the smoke from kitchen chimneys, showing a sign of human habitation.
        隔江相望的雾里村看似很近,想进去却不易,要穿过一条长长的峭壁之下的茶马古道。或许正因交通不便,才使它得以保持这份安静与美丽。
Wuli Village seemed near when seen across the river, but in fact it was quite a long way to reach it. We had to go through the Ancient Tea-Horse Road situated at the foot of a long, towering cliff. Maybe it was because of the inconvenience of the traffic that Wuli Village could maintain its tranquility and beauty.
       一路穿过四季桶、雾里村,我们来到泥大当。在怒江,凡称为“桶”的地方便是傈僳族聚居地,称为“当”的地方是独龙族聚居地,而称为“洛”的地方是藏族聚居地。也就是说,我们这一路穿过了藏族、傈僳族、独龙族几个民族,事实上可能还不止。因为这一带还分布着普米族、白族以及怒族,是名副其实的多民族聚居地。
We got to Nida Dang all the way from Siji Tong and Wuli villages. In the area of the Nujiang River, places called “桶 (Tong)” are the settlement of the Lisu nationality, places called “当 (Dang)” are inhabited by the Dulong nationality, and those named “洛 (Luo)” are where Tibetans live. That is to say, we had travelled through the places of three ethnic groups, maybe more, since there are Pumi nationality, Bai nationality and Nu nationality living around here.
        在泥大当,太阳终于出来了。晒着太阳和村里的孩子聊天,淳朴可爱的孩子带领我们去看了村里简陋的小教堂。再次上路,实在禁不住清澈碧绿的怒江的诱惑,一行人集体冲到江边。更有不怕冷的干脆脱去鞋袜,与冰冷彻骨的怒江水做了个亲密接触。
The sun came out when we reached Nida Dang. We chatted with children in the village while basking in the sun. These innocent and lovely kids took us to the humble chapel of their village. When we set out again on the journey, we couldn’t help rushing to the crystal clear and green Nujiang River and some of us even took off shoes and socks and had a close encounter with the cold water.
        继续上路,经过一段长长的上山路,走到几近崩溃时,秋那桶终于到了。它没有想象中的惊艳之美,只是一个安静的晒满阳光并透着青麦气息的小村庄。
We resumed our trip and walked along a long uphill path. Finally, we managed to get to the village of Qiuna Tong before we were exhausted. A quiet village bathing in the sun, permeated with the smell of green wheat, Qiuna Tong was not as stunning as we had imagined.
       村里的老教堂是一个中式的房屋,顶上却立着木制的十字架,有满脸皱纹的藏族老人坐在教堂前晒太阳。很奇怪的场景。在这身处大山之中的偏僻小村庄,手机信号都若有若无,可宗教的力量却越洋千里,渗透人心。
The old chapel of the village was of Chinese style, but there was a wooden cross fixed on the roof. Several old Tibetan women were sitting in front of the chapel enjoying the sun. It was indeed a weird scene – in a village as secluded as Qiuna Tong, mobile signal was hard to be detected, but religion has come all the way across the ocean and touched the human heart in a powerful way.
       在农家院里吃了顿香喷喷的农家饭后,我终于熬不住倒在了床上。院子里,同伴们在打牌,孩子们在高声歌唱,猪哼狗叫鸡觅食。就在这样一片热闹的声音里,我沉沉睡去。
After we had a savory meal in a farmer’s house, I finally was able to throw myself on the bed. In the courtyard, my friends were playing cards, children singing loudly, pigs grunting, dogs barking, and chickens looking for food. I fell asleep alone in these bustling and happy sounds.

版权所有:MyEChinese

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Edit on11-09-14 09:49

1Floor
11-09-14 14:38
仿佛不是人间

2Floor
11-09-19 09:47
是啊,真漂亮~~~