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滇行十日之:人神共居的伊甸园 Ten Days Traveling in Yunnan: Paradise Inhabited by Men and Gods

estella  11-09-20 10:00

Language:中文 pin yin English

       去贡当神山,原本是为着看怒江大拐弯。可快爬到山顶了,还没看到那个传说中的第一弯,于是下山。走了一半,我被云层中那忽隐忽现的光线吸引着,不愿再挪步,就找了个视野开阔之处,背倚枯树,就地坐下,独自于神山的半山腰俯瞰山脚的丙中洛。
We went to Gungthang holy mountain in hope of seeing the big turn of Nujiang River, but still saw nothing even when we nearly reached the top of the mountain. We had to give up and went downhill. On the half way I was charmed by the sunshine flickering in the clouds. I was reluctant to move and then found an open place on the hillside, leaning against a dead tree and enjoying the sceneries of Bingzhong Luo at the foot of the mountain.

       这真是个神奇的地方。高黎贡山、碧罗雪山、贡当神山还有嘎瓦嘎布神山环绕四周,碧绿的怒江弯延而过,圈出这么一片宁静美丽的谷地。谷地温暖湿润,四季如春。怒族、傈僳族、藏族、独龙族等多个民族和谐共居;天主教、基督教、喇嘛教等多种信仰相安共处。难怪这里被称为人神共居的伊甸园。
It is indeed an amazing valley, tranquil and picturesque, surrounded by Mount Gaoligong, the Biluo snow mountain, Gungthang Mountain, and Gawagabu holy mountain, and encircled by the green Nujiang water. The climate here is humid and warm, as if it were springs all year round. Different minority groups including the Tibetans, the Nu, Lisu and Dulong people are living harmoniously in the valley. Various religious beliefs coexist here, such as Catholicism, Christianism, and Lamaism. No wonder it is called the “Paradise Inhabited by Men and Gods”.
        此刻,阳光一片片洒落在这片伊甸园上,慢慢移动着,一点点地划过田埂、房屋和红顶的小教堂,以及远处挂满经幡的白塔。远眺周围的景观,就象在看一出舞台剧,看追光灯如何依次照亮台上的演员,看它们如何在光线下明艳,在阴影中沉默。天地大舞台,人生小戏剧,这恐怕是最逼真的写照了。
At the time, the light of the sun streamed down onto this land, and moved slowly across the fields, the houses, the red-roofed churches, and the white dagoba covered with sutra streamers. This scene, seen from a distance, was just like a play on the stage. The sunshine was the follow spotlight, highlighting the performers one after another on the stage, making them brilliant or shadowed. It conveyed best the saying “world was a huge stage while human life was just a short drama”.

        四下寂静无声,静得仿佛能听得到光线掠过的声音。偶尔有山下的鸡鸣狗吠顺着风隐隐约约传到山上,恍若千里之外。还有一家似乎在办白事,有老者长长的呼喊声响彻山间。
Silence was all around and I could even hear the movement of sunlight. Occasionally, indistinct noises of cocks and dogs from the foot of the mountain were carried by the wind to my ears, but all sounded as if they had come from a thousand miles away. There seemed to be a funeral going on in a household downhill and the long cries of an old man reverberated in the valley.
       静坐了半晌,我才恋恋不舍地下山。一路经过红顶的小教堂,木墙石顶的怒族村落。正走得口渴时,看到了一家小小的酒馆。酒馆里卖的是自酿的苞谷酒,有高度的,也有低度的,我酒量不佳,只敢要了杯低度的浅尝。酒很浓稠,酒味不重,有点像饮料,一元钱一大杯。虽然不太习惯这股味道,但我还是坐了下来,慢慢地喝。一旁的小桌前围坐着一群人,喝酒,聊天,大声地笑着。虽然他们的方言我听不懂,但看着他们的笑容我知道,他们的内心充满欢乐。其中一人拿出了一包凤爪分给其他人,一回头看到了我,很自然地递给我一个,就好像我本来就是他们中的一员。这样自然的一个动作却让我一直记着:我们有多久没有这样毫无顾忌、率性真诚地与陌生人交流过了?
I sat for quite a while and went down the mountain with reluctance. I passed by the red-roofed church and the small village of the Nu people where houses had wood walls and stone roofs. I saw a small tavern the moment I felt thirsty. Self-made corn wine, strong or mild, was sold in the tavern. I was not able to drink a lot so I ordered a glass of mild one. The liquor was thick, and smelled less of wine but more of soft drinks, which was cheap, one yuan for one glass. Although I couldn’t get used to the taste I still sat down and drank slowly. At the other side there was a group of people surrounding a small table drinking, chatting, and laughing loudly. I couldn’t understand their dialect, but I could feel their happiness from the smile on their faces. One of them took out a bag of chicken feet and shared with his friends. He turned around and saw me. Very naturally he passed one to me, as if I were one of them. I would always remember this act. How long haven’t we communicated with strangers freely and frankly like this?
       离开欢乐的小酒馆,搭车去了普化寺。雪山之下的普化寺,霞光万丈。正赶上晚课时间,年迈的老喇嘛紧紧握住我的手不停地说着什么,可惜我无法听懂,只能从他的脸上读懂一片热情。有几个喇嘛正在捏制一尊泥塑,很怪异的造型,一个年轻的喇嘛告诉我,这是明天跳金刚舞时用的,我猜想可能是某种原始崇拜的象征。可惜我第二天一早便要离开,错过了这场盛会,是我此行最大的遗憾。
I left the joyous tavern and got onto a bus to the Puhua Temple, which stood in great solemnity at the foot of the snow mountain. It was the time for evensong. An old monk held my hand tightly and constantly grumbled something I couldn’t understand. But I could read the earnest passion on his face. Several monks were making a strange clay figure. A young monk told me it was for the sorcerer’s ceremony the next day. I guessed it might be a symbol of a certain primitive worship. It was a pity that I couldn’t attend the ceremony because I ought to leave on the next morning.
       从普化寺沿着小路下山,很快便走到了重丁村。重丁教堂前的油菜花开的正盛,金黄灿烂,衬映着远处白色的教堂,很有几分异域风情。夕阳将光线透过云层如丝缕般笼罩在教堂的十字架上,忽然想起,刚刚的普化寺也同样笼罩在这片夕阳的霞光下。咫尺之遥,上帝与佛祖共同将光辉撒向这片人神共居的世外之地,如此垂青,令人倾羡。
       回到客栈,坐在窗前看云朵幻化成小狗模样。白云苍狗的一天,就这么落幕了。
I took a path from the Temple and soon got to the Chongding Village where golden rape flowers were in full bloom, setting off the white church not far away, presenting an exotic picture. The sunshine peered through the clouds, and shrouded the cross on top of the church. The scene reminded me of the Puhua Temple which was also enveloped in this brilliance. It seemed that both God and Buddha spread the same splendor and blessing to this piece of land, making it so much admired.
I returned to the inn and sat down by the window. A peaceful and common day drew to a close like this.


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Edit on11-09-20 10:01

1Floor
11-09-21 10:21
中国美丽的景色往往都在人迹罕至的地方