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寻访崇山峻岭间的藏寨小村 The Tibetan Village Up In the Mountain Peaks (1)

wh  10-09-16 10:29


 

        今天我们要去寻访一个位于秦岭深处的藏寨村——甘肃舟曲县插岗乡塘古村。早上从舟曲县城出发,汽车沿着弯弯曲曲的山路,行驶在崇山峻岭之间,前后左右都是重重大山,仿佛整个世界都是山。
        经过三个小时的颠簸,我们来到了位于一座山脚下的插岗乡政府。接待人员安排我们在乡里吃饭,稍作休整再出发。因为塘古村在山上,不通公路,所以我们只能徒步爬上去。
        12点钟,我们正式出发。村里为我们派来了一位向导,还牵来了骡子,帮我们驮设备,真是谢天谢地!我问村子在多高的地方,乡里的老师指着山顶飘的白云说:爬过那些云,你们三点能爬到目的地就不错了。我一听就直犯晕,难道真的是“白云深处有人家”?

Today we plan to seek out a Tibetan village deep within the Qinling mountains—Tanggu village in Chagang Township, Zhouqu County, Gansu. In the morning we left the county seat of Zhouqu and drove up the winding mountain roads into the towering peaks. Mountain after mountain surrounded us on all sides, as if the whole world were mountains.
After three hours of bumps and jolts, we arrived at the Chagang Township office at the foot of a mountain. The reception staff arranged for us to have a meal in town and rest a bit before setting off. Because Tanggu village is located up the mountain with no motorway access, the only way forward is to climb up on foot.
We officially departed at noon. The village dispatched a guide for us who came pulling a mule to carry our equipment, thank heavens! When I asked how high up the village was, the township teacher had pointed to the white clouds around the summit and said:"climb past those clouds, and if you make good time you can get there by 3 o'clock." I went faint when I heard him. Could there really be "a family who lives deep in the clouds"?

 

        下午一点二十分,我和随同的郭老师第一个到达目的地。刚一到那儿就立刻感受了藏族人民的热情好客:姑娘们早就身着礼服,手捧哈达和美酒在村口等我们了。
        这个村庄叫塘古村,海拔2400米,全村190多人,都是藏族,与外面相通的就是我们爬上来的那条小路,唯一的交通工具是骡子。村民们很少下山,千百年来他们一直过着自给自足的生活。在村里随处都可看见地上打盹的猪和老母鸡后面带着一群小鸡。傍晚时分还能看到吃草回来的牛,脖子上系着铃铛,叮叮当当地走着。山顶上还有羊,村尾有一户人家养着蜜蜂,过了养蜂人的家再向上走几步有个泉眼,泉水一年四季从不间断。村子里家家的食物几乎都是自产自销,油也是自家种的油菜榨的,还有青稞酒、山核桃、山野菜等等,总之吃喝是不用愁的。
        这里以前唯一的经济来源就是卖牛羊以及采草药,现在村民们也开始尝试着种植一些草药。县里的人说以前尝试过让他们搬到山下住,但是村民们不愿意。

At 1:20 p.m., Mr. Guo of our traveling party and I were the first to reach our destination. We were able to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Tibetan people the moment we arrived. Girls in ceremonial dress greeted us at the entrance of the village, offering us khata (Tibetan ceremonial scarf) and wine.
This village is called Tanggu village and is located at an elevation of 2400 meters. The village population is over 190, all of Tibetan ethnicity. Their only access to the outside world is the path that we climbed up, and their only means of transportation is the mule. Villagers hardly ever descend the mountain. For thousands of years they have been self-sufficient. Throughout the village we spotted pigs dozing on the ground and hens leading their brood of chicks behind them. At dusk, we could see cows returning home from grazing, with bells tied around their necks, jingling as they walked. On the mountaintop there were sheep, and at the corner of the village a household raising honeybees. Beyond that house a few steps up was the mouth of a spring, with spring water flowing continuously year round. Almost every household in the village produces and consumes its own food, pressing homegrown rapeseed for oil. With highland barley wine, hickory, and wild vegetables as well, they have no worries when it comes to food and drink.
    Previously, the only source of income here was selling cows and sheep and picking herbs. Now the villagers have started to attempt to plant herbs. Residents in Zhouqu County said that there had been attempts to have the villagers move down off the mountain, but the villagers were unwilling.

 

           村小学教室里只有几排课桌椅,前面一块黑板,墙上几张画报,除此之外就没有别的教学设施了。村支书,也是村小学唯一的老师,她告诉我们,这个教室原来是她的家,汶川地震时,原来的学校被震垮了,她就把家腾出来做了教室;另外,这里师资和教学用具都很欠缺,她很希望能从外面分配一个公办的教师到山村来教孩子。

In the classroom of the village elementary school, there were only a few rows of desks, a blackboard in front, and a few posters on the wall. Other than this, there was no other teaching equipment. The village party secretary also serves as the sole teacher for the elementary school. She told us that the classroom was originally her home. The original school building collapsed in the Wenchuan earthquake, so she vacated her home to make a classroom. In addition, teachers and instructional materials are very scarce; she hoped that a public teacher could be assigned to come to the village and teach the children.
 

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Edit on10-09-28 11:27