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寻访崇山峻岭间的藏寨小村 The Tibetan Village Up In the Mountain Peaks (1)

wh  10-09-16 10:29



Today we plan to seek out a Tibetan village deep within the Qinling mountains—Tanggu village in Chagang Township, Zhouqu County, Gansu. In the morning we left the county seat of Zhouqu and drove up the winding mountain roads into the towering peaks. Mountain after mountain surrounded us on all sides, as if the whole world were mountains.
After three hours of bumps and jolts, we arrived at the Chagang Township office at the foot of a mountain. The reception staff arranged for us to have a meal in town and rest a bit before setting off. Because Tanggu village is located up the mountain with no motorway access, the only way forward is to climb up on foot.
We officially departed at noon. The village dispatched a guide for us who came pulling a mule to carry our equipment, thank heavens! When I asked how high up the village was, the township teacher had pointed to the white clouds around the summit and said:"climb past those clouds, and if you make good time you can get there by 3 o'clock." I went faint when I heard him. Could there really be "a family who lives deep in the clouds"?



At 1:20 p.m., Mr. Guo of our traveling party and I were the first to reach our destination. We were able to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Tibetan people the moment we arrived. Girls in ceremonial dress greeted us at the entrance of the village, offering us khata (Tibetan ceremonial scarf) and wine.
This village is called Tanggu village and is located at an elevation of 2400 meters. The village population is over 190, all of Tibetan ethnicity. Their only access to the outside world is the path that we climbed up, and their only means of transportation is the mule. Villagers hardly ever descend the mountain. For thousands of years they have been self-sufficient. Throughout the village we spotted pigs dozing on the ground and hens leading their brood of chicks behind them. At dusk, we could see cows returning home from grazing, with bells tied around their necks, jingling as they walked. On the mountaintop there were sheep, and at the corner of the village a household raising honeybees. Beyond that house a few steps up was the mouth of a spring, with spring water flowing continuously year round. Almost every household in the village produces and consumes its own food, pressing homegrown rapeseed for oil. With highland barley wine, hickory, and wild vegetables as well, they have no worries when it comes to food and drink.
    Previously, the only source of income here was selling cows and sheep and picking herbs. Now the villagers have started to attempt to plant herbs. Residents in Zhouqu County said that there had been attempts to have the villagers move down off the mountain, but the villagers were unwilling.



In the classroom of the village elementary school, there were only a few rows of desks, a blackboard in front, and a few posters on the wall. Other than this, there was no other teaching equipment. The village party secretary also serves as the sole teacher for the elementary school. She told us that the classroom was originally her home. The original school building collapsed in the Wenchuan earthquake, so she vacated her home to make a classroom. In addition, teachers and instructional materials are very scarce; she hoped that a public teacher could be assigned to come to the village and teach the children.


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Edit on10-09-28 11:27